“For many reasons 2017 is extraordinary […] what shines through in 2017 is the individual qualities of the crus” Walter Speller MW, jancisrobinson.com
Twenty seventeen will be a surprising vintage for many in Barolo: Fenocchio’s wines show a surprising vibrancy and energy for a warm vintage. This is particularly true for his Cru wines where the individual character of each site is on display with uncommon precision. Giacomo Fenocchio is worth buying every year due to the consistent value and quality these wines offer, but in this vintage in particular they offer a rare opportunity to explore the personalities of four of Barolo’s finest Crus: Bussia, Cannubi, Castellero, and Villero. To showcase this diversity, we are offering a special price for a case of each of Fenocchio’s Crus.
The reputation of the 2017 vintage in Italy is emerging as far more nuanced and varied than first thought, and nowhere is that more true than among the complex web of microclimates in Piedmont. The critical consensus is that 2017 Barolo has produced some genuinely surprising wines: Walter Speller MW reports that the 2017s show “a freshness and elegance that defy the vintage”. This is confirmed by Antonio Galloni, who highlights their “mid-weight” profile and brightness which reminded him of the 2015s, and “edgy tannins” that resemble 2005 – both spectacular vintages in their own right. A black pepper character seems to run through all the wines, with restrained fruit and promising ageing potential.
Giacomo Fenocchio is renowned for producing a traditional style of Barolo with long maceration, ageing in old Slavonian oak, and with great potential for extended maturation in bottle. The 5th-generation winemaker Claudio is “a master at crafting classic Barolos that beautifully express their pedigree” according to journalist Kerin O’Keefe, author of the definitive guide ‘Barolo and Barbaresco: The King and Queen of Italian Wine.’ Claudio’s 2017s continue the welcome trend of punching well above their weight, with the Bussia in particular on par with the likes of Bartolo Mascarello and Giuseppe Rinaldi in Walter Speller’s report.
Barolo Bussia 2017 £195 per 6 bottles in bond BUY NOW Deep nose of cherry with hints of dark spice and just a touch of malt and a hint of mint. Succulent cherry fruit with a touch of gingerbread and gorgeous, finely ground tannins that go on and on without demanding all the attention. Elegant rather than powerful, but skilfully executed.
17+/20, Walter Speller MW, Jancisrobinson.com |
Barolo Castellero 2017 £195 per 6 bottles in bond BUY NOW A tiny bit sbdued with the cranberry and cherry fruit just coming out. Just a hint of black pepper and rusty nail. Sappy cranberry and raspberry fruit on the palate and with just the right dose of coating tannins. […]. Juicy and lively finish with tannic bite and with an elegant palate weight.
16.5/20, Walter Speller MW, Jancisrobinson.com |
Barolo Cannubi 2017 £240 per 6 bottles in bond BUY NOW Subtle but concentrated cherry fruit nose with savoury, minerally top notes. With aeration, more lift, and perfumed cherry fruit, but still very shy. Completely closed on the palate but with a layer of long powdery tannins and sappy acidity. Very embryonic.
16.5+/20, Walter Speller MW, Jancisrobinson.com |
Barolo Villero 2017 £210 per 6 bottles in bond BUY NOW Reluctant nose with hints of raspberry fruit and savoury, malty spicy notes. With aeration increasingly perfumed. Elegant and almost vibrant fruit palate followed by bags of powdery tannins, but the fruit prevails. Same elegance and lightness of touch as the Castellero, but with a bigger tannic load and more depth.
17/20, Walter Speller MW, Jancisrobinson.com |
Magnums and double-magnums available in limited quantities. please enquire for more information. expected arrival Summer 2021