Crisp lemon fruit with rich mealy notes and a dense texture on the palate, this is really alive, with lovely acidity and plenty of minerality. Very clean and crisp with a long finish but more power than its sibling, this is the Bâtard to the Chevalier. Drink 2014-2025

The Tua Rita 2018 Syrah Per Sempre is another monumental achievement from this iconic Tuscan estate. Stefano Frascolla and his team have slouched into a very cozy and comfortable relationship with the Syrah grape, and this wine registers marked exuberance, generosity and quality with each vintage that I taste. I had previewed a sample of this 3,500-bottle release earlier in...