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Organic Wonders: Querciabella Batàr 2016 and Chianti Classico Riserva 2015



Querciabella was founded in 1974, among the very first of those that came to be called ‘Super Tuscans’ and redefine Italian wine on the world stage. They have continued their pioneering spirit, converting to organic viticulture back in 1988 and now representing the largest collection of organically certified vineyards in Italy. Moreover, today Querciabella operates with a vegan variation on biodynamics, a unique approach that eschews any animal products whatsoever. Ever keen to go beyond the expected, Querciabella also promote biodiversity wherever possible, surrounding their vineyards with oak forests, olive groves, and home-grown bee colonies. This is not a cynical marketing ploy but a strategy for producing the best wine possible: Querciabella enjoy soils rich in organic material, healthy vines, and immensely concentrated fruit.

Having started with a single hectare, Querciabella now owns over 100 hectares in Chianti Classico and Maremma on the coast, producing wine exclusively from their own fruit. In Chianti, these vines are located in the communes of Greve, Radda, and Gaiole, each of which offers its own distinct character to the blend: Freshness from Greve, structure from Radda, and concentration from Gaiole.

Batàr was originally devised as “Bâtard” to reflect its Burgundian style. 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Bianco, the grapes are meticulously picked plot by plot in the Ruffoli region, and fermented and matured separately. The wine is fermented in barrique, undergoes full malolactic conversion, and is matured for a full 42 months. Described as “a dream of a white” by Hugh Johnson himself, this ageworthy wine is rich yet balanced, a true Grand Cru that punches well above its weight. The 2016 vintage, which was characterised by a very balanced, long season, is an all-time great for this wine: it won its highest-ever score from Antonio Galloni’s, who described is succinctly as “superb”.

Palafreno is the term used for “warhorse” in the Italian Renaissance Epic poem ‘Orlando Furioso’. This 100% Merlot is only made in the very best vintages and in tiny quantities – only a few hundred cases. To top it off, the 2013 vintage for this wine cannot be overstated, with the warmer conditions and long season playing towards the strengths of Merlot: James Suckling calls it “Merlot Magic. Easily the best ever.” Enough said!

The Chianti Classico Riserva could be considered as a ‘Premier Cru’, blended from the very finest plots in Chianti Classico. This wine is born of Querciabella’s terroir-driven approach to wine, letting the land speak for itself. 100% Sangiovese, the Riserva is only made in the finest vintages, fermented in 3-ton French oak casks and aged in Barrique for another 16 months. 2015 was a warm vintage for the region which has produced a wine greater concentration to lower yields, while the altitude of the vineyards has maintained the elegance and freshness of the fruit. This will be a tremendously long-lived vintage, offering incredible value against its Burgundian cousins.