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‘The 2015 [Canon la Gaffeliere] has been nothing short of magnificent on the two occasions I have tasted it so far.’
Antonio Galloni
Yesterday saw a litany of releases from the left bank. This morning, however, begins with a duo from the right bank. They possess a different character altogether and both wines were well received at our various tastings. Plush and juicy they are sure to please.
Like most estates in Pomerol Clos L’Eglise is a small estate. Its wines, however, are generally rich and plush. Powerfully endowed and concentrated with lots of plummy, spicy fruit and the structure to age gracefully for decades. The 2015 takes these characteristics and has refined them. Early harvesting and sensitive treatment in the winery mean that this year the wine is more fleet of foot with a grace and focus that is quite different but rather charming. It shares space on a sloping hillock with esteemed neighbours such as Clinet and Trotanoy. The quality shines through and it is well priced compared to the finest vintages available on the market.
The 2015 Canon la Gaffeliere is a blend of 55% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Franc and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon. It impressed at our tastings for its pure, glossy, vibrant fruit allied to polished tannins. The overriding reason for the wines elegance is the high percentage of exceptional Cabernet Franc. This has been cultivated to give very low yields and with a high average vine age its presence can really be felt in the wine. Combined with organic viticulture and great terroir the quality is clear. This is a particularly good showing for the estate.
Château Clos L’Eglise, Pomerol
£590 Per 12 Bottles En Primeur
£295 Per 6 Bottles En Primeur
£305 Per 3 Magnums En Primeur
£600 Per 6 Magnums En Primeur
Co-proprietor Hélène Garçin-Léveque told me that for the first time, Clos l'Eglise was one of the first Pomerols to be picked since they felt that the grapes were fully ripe. So why wait? That clearly is vindicated by the bouquet with ebullient, ripe blackberry and wild strawberry fruit, almost Burgundy-like in terms of its purity. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine, tensile tannin, brimming over with energy, tightly packed towards the more linear finish than usual. This is a Clos l'Eglise built for long-term bottle ageing, though I suspect it will actually come round a little earlier than usual. A wonderful Pomerol, almost understated, but full of personality. Drink 2022 – 2050.94-96/100, Neal Martin
The Clos L'Eglise is the best of Hélène Garcin's 2015s. There is good depth and persistence here, although like all the other wines, the style is decidedly delicate and understated, especially for the year. Dark red stone fruits, licorice, leather and smoke add subtle nuances of complexity. The 2015 offer good freshness and purity, although it is a bit light. 88-91/100, Antonio Galloni
Château Canon La Gaffeliére, St-Émilion
£590 Per 12 Bottles En Primeur
£295 Per 6 Bottles En Primeur
£305 Per 3 Magnums En Primeur
£600 Per 6 Magnums En Primeur
It has another "cool" bouquet, a common thread among Comte Stephan Von Neipperg's 2015s - very restrained at first, nicely focused and gradually revealing undergrowth and even a subtle charcoal scent (probably from the Cabernet Sauvignon). The palate is medium-bodied with black fruit laced with graphite and cedar, the Cabernet brothers really defining the character of this Saint Emilion and edging it towards say, more Figeac in style. This is a fascinating 2015, more cerebral than previous vintages that I have tasted over the years.Drink 2020-2040.93-95/100, Neal Martin
The 2015 Canon La Gaffelière is seriously impressive. Like all of Stephan von Neipperg's wines in this vintage, the Canon La Gaffelière is endowed with considerable richness and a sense of vertical structure. The significant presence of Cabernet Franc gives the wine striking aromatic lift, which it very much needs. Mocha, red cherry jam and sweet floral notes give the 2015 its soaring perfume. This exceptionally beautiful Saint-Émilion is going to need time to fully come together, but it is super-impressive, even in the early going. The 2015 has been nothing short of magnificent on the two occasions I have tasted it so far. The presence of Cabernet Franc is felt in the wine's strong aromatic signature.
95-97/100, Antonio Galloni
